In Germany there's prejudice against cuvées. There's also prejudice against
French wines, which is no coincidence. It's thought that the leftover grapes
are thrown into a vat and the random resulting mixture is called a cuvée.
Maybe that's how amateur vintners work, i.e. a farmer who has a few dozen
grapevines and makes wine for himself, but a serious vintner like David
Klenert does it differently. He creates the cuvée at the beginning of the
year's wine production, not the end. He has a vision of what his cuvée should
taste like, so he mixes the grapes accordingly, paying attention to the
strengths and weaknesses of individual grapes. His goal was to make a wine
that's "leicht, frisch, früchtig, süffig" (light, fresh, fruity
and pleasant).
He's succeeded in his goal with this year's cuvée, which is a mixture of
Riesling and Scheurebe. What he's created is a wine that, in my
opinion, has a typical Baden taste. It's a pleasant wine, fruitier than the
Riesling. It's not a wine that I would choose to drink if there are
Württemberg wines available.
One thing I'd like to emphasise is that there's no consistency with cuvées.
This year's cuvée might taste completely different to last year's cuvée,
depending on the whim of the vintner.
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